Ellen (Gilman) Porter to Georgiana Bowditch, 22 September 1904

[Probably from Ellen (Gilman) Porter in London, England, to Georgiana Bowditch. She describes a European trip in Switzerland, France, and England, with emphasis on antiquities at the British Museum, and services at St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster Abbey.

The letter may be incomplete, since it is not signed. The identification of the writer is based on the handwriting, which appears to be the same as Ellen (Gilman) Porter's signature in a 1908 passport application. She and Georgiana were apparently close friends; Georgiana was mentioned in Ellen's will. Also, in addition to this letter, there is an envelope with no letter inside, addressed in the same handwriting to "Miss Georgie Bowditch, Micaville, Yancey Co., North Carolina," and postmarked "Baltimore MD., Jan 24 3PM," and Ellen lived in Baltimore.

The letter is somewhat difficult to read, due to the handwriting and the thin paper resulting in bleed-through from the back side.]

London 47 Upper Baker St.

Sept. 22 1904

My dear Georgie,

I had left Lucerne when your welcome letter reached that place, so it was forwarded to Thun,1 then we had gone from there to Couvet2 in Canton Neufchatel3 & we had gone from there so it continued its travels, no, I did get it there though we stopped but a week, & then started for Paris, stopping a night on the way at Dijon to see the Cathedral.

We were very busy in Paris day after day & all day long for three weeks & then crossed the Channel via Calais & Dover & then by train to this biggest city of the world with its 5 or 6000 millions I forget which. You have no idea of the vastness of it till you drive & drive passing just as crowded streets in one part as in another, and just as thickly built up. It is a wonder & a marvel when I think of how they all can get enough food to supply such a population.

Paris is very beautiful with its open wide streets & "Place" here & there. The flowers in the Tuilleries Gardens4 & those of the Luxembourg5 are superb, & the trees & and charming spots to sit & read as you choose.

I have just finished two letters for America & I hoped to finish this but it is too dark.

Now I have prepared for our 7 o'clk dinner, turned on the electric light and can write some more to you.

The climate of London is not delightful at this season & yet we have had a good many sunshiny (through haze) days lately. But most it is dark & dismal, & we have been indoors a portion of today.

I am very much at home here as I have been so often, but Mrs. Low6 was never here but once & that was 47 years ago! Consequently I go over & over to the British Museum with her & show the wonderful things from Egypt, Babylon, Assyria, the enormous statues in front of Sargon's Palace,7 the great winged Bulls & ancient cuneiform characters on tablets of baked clay written 4 & 5 & 600 yrs & 1000 yrs B. C. We have seen some things from Persia recently brought to Paris that were most interesting. A Palace of the ancient Kings brought & put up, really beautifully arranged. I love antiquities & always take much interest in these ancient peoples. Masirbanipal and Assurbanipal8 left extraordinary pictures of Lion hunts & bear hunts. The Museum has ancient Roman Britain remains as mosaic pavements, gold & silver jewelry & vessels of silver, pewter & bronze. The there are prehistoric things from the Stone & Iron & Bronze Age. In fact it is one of the wonders of the world.

Then the National Gallery has all the various schools of art represented in lovely & charming pictures. We have been there several times & are going again soon. Westminster Abbey is beyond description by me.

I love St. Pauls Cathedral9 too. We go very often to the magnificent services there where the music is lovely. On Sunday morn the Bishop of London preaches & adds ordination so we are going. In the afternoon Canon Scott Holland10 preaches at St. Paul's. Such practical beautiful sermons.

Sunday 24th. This is my first chance to finish this since day before yesterday & I have just come from Westminster Abbey & such fine music as we had & an [__?__] crowd a very fine sermon from a Minor Canon Rev. Mr. Perkins11 & it is so uplifting to worship in such a [__?__] [__?__]! I wish you could see it!

I gathered this heather from a place wonderful for its enormous Beech trees & called Birnham Beeches.12

  1. A city in the canton of Bern in Switzerland. See Thun.
  2. A city in the canton of Neuchâtel in western Switzerland, now part of Val-de-Travers. See Couvet.
  3. A French-speaking canton (state) in western Switzerland. See Canton of Neuchâtel.
  4. A public garden between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde in Paris, France. See Tuileries Garden.
  5. A garden in Paris at the Luxembourg Palace. See Jardin du Luxembourg.
  6. Lucy Elizabeth Haskell (1834-1914)
  7. Sargon II was an Assyrian king from 722-705 BC. See Sargon II, Dur-Sharrukin, and Colossal winged bull from the Palace of Sargon II.
  8. Ashurbanipal was an Assyrian king from 668-627 BC. See Ashurbanipal and Library of Ashurbanipal.
  9. See St Paul's Cathedral.
  10. Henry Scott Holland (1847-1918), Canon at St. Paul's Cathedral in London, England. See Henry Scott Holland.
  11. Jocelyn Henry Temple Perkins (1870-1962), Minor Canon and Sacrist of Westminster Abbey, 1899-1958. See Jocelyn Perkins.
  12. A woodland area about 25 miles west of London known for its Beech trees, many of them hundreds of years old. See Burnham Beeches.