Abbot McClure to his cousin Abbot Thorndike and his wife Maud (Kilbourn), 12 September 1923
[From Abbot McClure in Cortina d'Ampezzo, Italy, to his cousin Abbot Thorndike and his wife Maud (Kilbourn). He says after three weeks in Venice he is now on a trip through the Dolomites, and will end up in Merano where he will stay about a month; describes the mountain scenery he's travelled through, and the people; and talks a bit about the cold weather, and says he's thinking of returning in the winter for winter sports.]
Hotel Faloria
Cortina d'Ampizzo
September 12th [1923]
Dear Abbot & Maud,
Mountains have from my earliest reccolections exercised the greatest fascination over me, and I decided after my three weeks in Venice to take this wonderful trip through the Dolomites. When answering the question what are the Dolomites? I must quote L. Marion Davidson in her book "Gates of the Dolomites"1 in which she answers thusly. "The Dolomites! What are they? Rocks! Rocks! Rocks! all in capitals, just Rocks, Rocks, sitting on tops of high mountains." Never have I seen such superb "Rocks" and their color is beyond belief. From my little balcony I look over a beautiful valley, and beyond to a most superb range of these multi-colored castelated peaks, the highest covered with snow and towering far up into a most extraordinary blue which one only sees in these high altitudes.
I left Venice by motor Monday, coming up through wonderful mountain passes until I reached Cortina, and there found myself in this enchanting spot. I love it all, and am looking forward to my six hour motor ride tomorrow to Bolzano that I am told is even finer than the one I took on Monday. In fact, I believe it's considered the finest mountain ride in Europe. I must be up and off at 8:30 which will not be a difficult ordeal as the early morning light is heavenly. Friday I shall spend in Bolzano, and Saturday will take a train for an hours ride to Merano, and there I will remain for a month or so.
How I wish you could be here with me to wander in the great pine forests and gaze out over range after range of purple, pink, and orange mountains. It sounds fantastic, but I assure you it's quite true. The peasants in their native costumes work in the fields and even the funny waitresses in this hotel wear a quaint costume. While the people are again under Vatican rule they are very Austrian at heart I am sure. The shops are filled with Austrian things and the people are a strange mixture of Austrian and Italian, and their dialect is most weird.
I sleep under two heavy blankets, and sit about a huge roaring fire after dinner. I feel I will never again complain of the cold after the terrible heat I experienced in Rome in July and August. Here the season is over, and the hotel begins to look deserted. Over at Merano the season is in full swing, so I shall be in time for some amusement I hope. I have several Roman friends there, so that will make it enjoyable. Venice was delightful, but a continued high wind spoiled the fine swims at the Lido, so I was ready to pull out.
I am thinking very seriously of coming up here for the winter sports in January and February, for it has been a long time since I sported in snow. I will send you a card from Bolzano and Merano.
With much love,
Affectionately,
Abbot
- Gates of the Dolomites, by L. Marion Davidson and F. M. Spencer Thomson, was published in 1912. The passage quoted is on the first page, and is slightly misquoted. The actual passage says "mountains," not "high mountains."