Abbot McClure to his cousin William Thorndike, 27 July 1924
[From Abbot McClure in Garmisch, Germany, to his cousin William Thorndike. He describes the motor trip he's taking with his friend Mr. Savage (with a chauffeur) to Munich, Germany; says they had been worried about crossing the Austrian and German borders, but had no problems; talks about the exchange rate and their expenses; says they will reach Munich on Tuesday (the 19th), stay until about 18 August, go to Salzburg, Austria, for a week, then to Merano, Italy, for a week; and talks about his impressions of Germany.]
Hotel Alpenhof, Garmisch, Germany
July 27th [1924]
Dear Will,
So far so good. Three weeks ago today my friend Mr. Savage1 and I left Florence for our trip to Munchen with only one dread and that was the crossing of the Austrian and German frontiers. Now we can look back on that moment as a perfectly easy and polite one. The officials of both frontiers were just as nice as one would wish for, and of course with all our papers etc. in good order there was no need of worry, but the very idea of crossing those two frontiers and especially by motor made us both a little uneasy. I had heard of various troubles arising at the frontier, and how the baggage was subjected to the most careful search. At the Austrian frontier no bags were opened, and when we arrived at the German frontier Mr. Savage opened one of his little suitcases and the others went through marked O. K.
Thus far the trip has been really wonderful, and our car has behaved in a manner to make the Fiat people proud. Our Italian chauffeur, while stupid off his seat, is an excellent driver, and that perhaps is better so. Our one night stop after leaving Italian soil was at Innsbruck, that I vagully remembered when we stopped there in 1909 en route to Munchen.
The thing that made an impression on us both was the exchange. We both have lire, and for one we received something like 3,000 kronen. Our first luncheon cost is 245,000 K. including tip, and coffee after lunch with tip was 17,000. Of course trying to keep our accounts straight took all our spare time, and even now I don't see how we managed it. Here in Germany as Bavaria, it is equally difficult, but I am happy to say we have no other currancy to deal with. Here it is the gold mark, and for one m. we must map about 6 lire, so to us it is expensive. For instance we had coffee last night and it cost us 3 marks or 18 lire. In Italy a cup of after dinner coffee costs not more than 1.50 and at the most 2 lire. Other things are about equal, and this hotel is very comfortable and the table excellent.
Tuesday we go on to Munchen, a ride of two hours, and I shall be glad to be settled for a while. We plan to be in Munchen until about the 18th and then return to Salsburgh in Austria for a week and go on down into Italy where we hope to be in Merano for a week. Our permission from the German authorities gives us until August 24th, but I much rather leave several days ahead as we will have a different frontier to cross and the officials may not be as pleasant.
It has done nothing but rain since we arrived here, and that does not tend to enchant one with any spot, especially a mountain one. With the rain it is raw and cold, so there is nothing to do but stay indoors and hope for the sun tomorrow.
So far my impressions of Germany and the Germans is about the same as before the war, but I do notice the lack of upkeep that a Republic lacks and an Empire had. No soldiers or officers in their smart uniforms, at least not here, but I suppose we will perhaps see more of that in Munchen? We are the only English speaking people in this large hotel and I wonder just how we are looked upon. Certainly we have noticed nothing but politeness so far, and I do hope our stay in this "hated land" will bring nothing to cause us to regret our coming.
Since leaving Venice we have not known what heat is, with one exception, and that was Bozen after leaving Karassee. There it was quite as hot as Florence, but we soon climbed out of that wave and at Gossensass 3,600 feet we were cool again, and Friday crossing the high mountains of the Tirol between Innsbruck and this spot we were fairly cold.
My German is beginning to come back a little, but oh! I find it pretty hard, and am constantly putting in one or two Italian words, which of course means nothing to these people. Mr. Savage speaks beautiful French, but feels it wise not to use it as the feeling for that country is pretty bitter as we have found out. In Austria several of the hotel people spoke French and did not seem to resent it being used, here no!!
I will write you from Munchen and give you my impressions of Munchen today, and as I remembered it fifteen years ago. With much love to Marie2 and Miss Norris,3
Ever affectionately,
Abbot